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PeterWillis
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Posted: August.03.05 at 1:02am | IP Logged Quote PeterWillis

Anyone know the "recipe" for the grease/kerosene polishing compound? The guy I apprenticed with mentioned it once or twice about cleaning old brass mouthpieces, but never whipped up a batch. Then when I was at Brannen Bros Flutes' shop last year, they were using it to polish keys - didn't think to ask how to make it. It pops into my mind from time to time when I look at the buffing wheel and a small key or other piece. What kind of grease?
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bobbaier
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Posted: August.09.05 at 7:33pm | IP Logged Quote bobbaier

Don't know what they're using at Brannen, but we used to pound Burns red rouge into a powder with a hammer (the rouge was wrapped in a cloth) and add valve oil to make a paste. Gives a great final finish, but kind of messy.

bob  
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PeterWillis
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Posted: August.10.05 at 10:14am | IP Logged Quote PeterWillis

Thanks. Yeah, messy but effective seems to be to idea - Brannen uses a small bristle brush (like from a Dremel kit) in a motor to polish their keys in order to keep all the lines sharp - buffs will round things out and make the edges duller and sloppier looking they say.  
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JButky
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Posted: August.13.05 at 8:09am | IP Logged Quote JButky

It's very simple..Just add the kero to some red rouge and let it sit. It will slowly dissolve into a paste that you can use for polishing. The amount is by feel just like adding alcohol to shellac flakes to get the right consistency. When it starts to dry, just refresh it a bit with kero and/or rouge. If you smash the rouge up a bit with a hammer it speeds up the process.

Joe B
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stewartfischer
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Posted: August.17.05 at 6:09pm | IP Logged Quote stewartfischer

When I get finished working on flutes I have a chamois wheel I put in my bench motor, and while its turning I spray Hagerty's Silversmith Spray on it and go over the instrument to polish and remove fingerprints. This does a nice job and is not messy at all.
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JButky
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Posted: August.18.05 at 6:39am | IP Logged Quote JButky

I reserve polishing for complete restorations only when someone wants the body tube completely free of scratches as you get from the maker. Buffing of any kind is reserved for high polish only so I don't use it for regular PC work.

A standard body clean is the foil/baking soda tarnishremoval cleaning procedure followed by a rinse and application of tarnish shield with a hand rag finish. Any motorized equipment should be reserved for localized scratch removals only since you will remove a lot more metal in the process when its not necessary.

The rouge paste idea is a similar situation. Dissolved it is less agressive and requires less buffing for a nice finish. It is great, especially for keywork followed by a good cleaning. I reserve the rouge paste for worst cases since it is not necessary in many cases unless you have "worked" the metal.  

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